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Gasherbrum 2 is the thirteenth highest mountain in the world and, by the standards of the 8,000 metre peaks, one of the more approachable. It has a logical route, a reasonable summit day and a setting at the head of the Baltoro Glacier that few mountains can match.
Our team supports expeditions to the Gasherbrums from Skardu, and Gasherbrum 2 is the peak we suggest most often to climbers planning their first 8,000er. Here is what you need to know about the mountain and the climb.
Where Is Gasherbrum 2?
Gasherbrum 2, often written Gasherbrum II or shortened to G2, stands in the Karakoram range on the border between Pakistan and China. On the Pakistani side it lies in the Shigar district of Gilgit-Baltistan.
It is part of the Gasherbrum massif, a horseshoe of high peaks surrounding the South Gasherbrum Glacier at the far end of the Baltoro. The group includes Gasherbrum I, which is also known as Hidden Peak, along with Gasherbrum III, IV, V and VI. Broad Peak and K2 are a short distance to the northwest.
Gasherbrum 2 at a Glance
| Detail | Information |
|---|---|
| Height | 8,035 m (26,362 ft) |
| World rank | 13th highest mountain |
| Range | Karakoram, Baltoro Muztagh |
| Location | Pakistan and China border |
| Survey name | K4 |
| First ascent | 7 July 1956 |
| First winter ascent | 2 February 2011 |
| Base camp | About 5,000 to 5,100 m |
| Standard route | Southwest ridge |
| Expedition length | Around 45 to 50 days from Islamabad |
What Does Gasherbrum Mean?
The name comes from the Balti language. It combines rgasha, meaning beautiful, with brum, meaning mountain, so Gasherbrum is the beautiful mountain. You will often see it translated as shining wall, a phrase that started as a description of the gleaming west face of Gasherbrum IV, but the Balti meaning is the correct one.
During the nineteenth century survey of the Karakoram, the peak was recorded as K4, following K2 and K3 in the list.
Climbing History
First Ascent
Gasherbrum 2 was first climbed on 7 July 1956 by an Austrian expedition. Fritz Moravec, Josef Larch and Hans Willenpart reached the summit by the southwest ridge after spending a night in the open at around 7,500 metres. Their line is still the normal route.
First Winter Ascent
On 2 February 2011, Simone Moro of Italy, Denis Urubko of Kazakhstan and Cory Richards of the United States made the first winter ascent. It was the first time any of the Karakoram 8,000 metre peaks had been climbed in winter. The three were caught in an avalanche on the descent and were lucky to survive.
Other Landmarks
Gasherbrum 2 has also been the scene of several firsts in extreme skiing and fast ascents, and in 1984 Reinhold Messner and Hans Kammerlander traversed Gasherbrum I and Gasherbrum 2 in a single push without returning to base camp.
The Trek to Base Camp
Reaching Gasherbrum base camp is an expedition in its own right. The route is the same as the K2 Base Camp trek for the first week.
From Skardu, jeeps travel to Askole in six to seven hours. The trek then follows the Braldu River and the Baltoro Glacier through Jhola, Paiju, Urdukas and Goro II to Concordia. Here the route to the Gasherbrums turns southeast, away from K2, and follows the Upper Baltoro Glacier to its junction with the Abruzzi Glacier. One more day leads to base camp, which sits on a strip of moraine at just over 5,000 metres.
The walk in takes seven to eight days and provides excellent acclimatisation. Gasherbrum I and Gasherbrum 2 share the same base camp, so it is a sociable place in July.
The Standard Route on Gasherbrum 2
Base Camp to Camp 1
The first obstacle is the icefall of the South Gasherbrum Glacier. Climbers weave through a maze of crevasses and ice towers to reach Camp 1 at about 5,900 metres, in the wide upper basin beneath the Gasherbrum peaks. The route changes each year and is marked with wands. It is best travelled in the cold of early morning, when snow bridges are firm.
Camp 1 to Camp 2
From the basin, the route climbs the lower part of the southwest ridge on steep snow and ice. A prominent feature known as the Banana Ridge leads to Camp 2 at about 6,400 to 6,500 metres. This section is fixed with rope and includes slopes of around 50 degrees.
Camp 2 to Camp 3
More steep ground follows, with mixed sections and exposed snow slopes, to Camp 3 at roughly 6,900 to 7,000 metres. Tent platforms here are small and have to be cut into the slope.
Camp 3 to Camp 4
A shorter climb reaches Camp 4 at around 7,400 metres, on a shoulder beneath the summit pyramid. Some teams skip this camp and go for the summit from Camp 3, which makes for a very long day.
Summit Day
From the top camp, the route makes a long rising traverse beneath the rocky summit pyramid to a col on the east ridge. A final steep snow slope and a narrow ridge lead to the summit, which is small and sharply defined. Most climbers take 8 to 12 hours to reach the top and several more to descend. The view extends over Gasherbrum I, Broad Peak, K2 and across the Shaksgam Valley into China.
How Hard Is Gasherbrum 2?
Among the fourteen 8,000 metre peaks, Gasherbrum 2 is usually ranked with Cho Oyu as one of the less technical. The route is direct, the camps are well spaced and the summit day is shorter than on Broad Peak.
It is still a major climb. These are the main challenges.
- The icefall. Crevasse danger is constant between base camp and Camp 1.
- Steep ground. The slopes to Camp 2 and Camp 3 demand solid fixed rope and crampon technique.
- Avalanche risk. The traverse on summit day and the slopes below Camp 3 can be dangerous after fresh snow.
- Weather. Karakoram storms are sudden and can last for days.
- Altitude. Many climbers attempt G2 without bottled oxygen, which adds greatly to the strain.
Who Is Gasherbrum 2 Suitable For?
You should have climbed at least one peak of 6,500 to 7,000 metres before attempting Gasherbrum 2. Spantik, Lenin Peak, Aconcagua and Himlung are all good preparation. You need to be competent with fixed ropes, steep snow and glacier travel, and comfortable spending many nights above 6,000 metres.
For climbers who meet those requirements, Gasherbrum 2 is an outstanding first 8,000 metre peak. It is also popular as part of a double expedition with Gasherbrum I, since both are climbed from the same base camp.
Best Time to Climb
The season runs from mid June to mid August. Most summits take place in the second half of July, when the weather is at its most settled. Teams usually arrive at base camp in late June to allow three to four weeks for acclimatisation rotations and a summit window.
Permits and Costs
Climbing Gasherbrum 2 requires a mountaineering visa, a mountaineering permit and a government liaison officer. Under the fee structure introduced in 2025, the royalty for 8,000 metre peaks other than K2 is charged per climber, and published schedules put it at about 2,500 US dollars for the summer season. The authorities have revised these fees more than once, so check the current figure before you commit.
Beyond the royalty, the main costs are the trek to base camp, porters, base camp services, high altitude porters, oxygen if used, insurance, a helicopter rescue deposit and personal equipment. Expedition packages from local operators range widely depending on the level of support. We are happy to provide a detailed quotation for base camp only or full service options.
Frequently Asked Questions
How high is Gasherbrum 2?
Gasherbrum 2 is 8,035 metres high, or 26,362 feet. It is the thirteenth highest mountain in the world.
Where is Gasherbrum II located?
It is in the Karakoram range on the border of Pakistan and China, at the head of the Baltoro Glacier in Gilgit-Baltistan.
Is Gasherbrum 2 the easiest 8,000 metre peak?
It is considered one of the least technical, alongside Cho Oyu. No 8,000 metre peak is easy, and G2 involves an icefall, steep slopes and serious altitude.
How long does it take to climb Gasherbrum 2?
A full expedition takes around 45 to 50 days from Islamabad, including about two weeks of trekking in and out.
What is the difference between Gasherbrum I and Gasherbrum II?
Gasherbrum I, or Hidden Peak, is higher at 8,080 metres and more technical. Gasherbrum II is 8,035 metres and has a simpler standard route. They share a base camp.
Plan Your Gasherbrum 2 Expedition
An 8,000 metre climb succeeds or fails on logistics, acclimatisation and the strength of the team behind you. Our Skardu based crew has years of experience on the Baltoro and can organise every part of a Gasherbrum 2 expedition. Contact us to discuss dates, support options and costs.
Last updated . Prices, dates and conditions can change, so confirm details with our team before booking.